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Oldpath05
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Changing MX34 Band Wheel belts

I have to order some band wheel belts for my MX34 Pro, mine are 4 years old and are getting spongy and the band blades are coming off more often. Last time my son  changed them it was difficult. Any new update best/preferred method of changing these urethane band wheel belts? And are the newer model HD36 sawmill band wheels the same way, take the same belt? 

Post Oakie
Post Oakie's picture

I've had to change the band wheels on my old MX34, and it was a real struggle, until I watched a few YouTube videos.  Here's the one that worked best for me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcJAQ9Y5YGY.  The guy in the video is right-- when you first put a tire up to the band wheel, your first thought will probably be that Norwood sent you the wrong one, but it will fit. 

Also, I had a hard time figuring out why the blade came of every time I throttled up the engine before a cut.  It turns out that the centripal force was causing the tire to seperate from the wheel enough to throw the blade.  I used "Shoe Goo" to glue the tire in place (I am to cheap to replace it, and it still works fine.  Of course this means that removing the tire if it does finally wear out will not be easy!

Oldpath05
Oldpath05's picture

Oakie I watched that video but that belt seems more stretchy than what I remember what the lasts wheel band belts I got from Norwood. How long have you use Shoe Goo on the band belts? I'm wondering if that glue will stand up to the heat from the band blade going around and around, or is there any heat at all being made by the band blade?

John 6:68 Then Simon Peter answered him, Lord, to whom shall we go? thou hast the words of eternal life.

r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture

PO,

I would suspect that shoe goo has a temp limit; if you heat the edge with a torch, I would suspect it would break down before the smoke happens.

Bill
Bill's picture

If you wish to glue them on use feathering cement ,it will hold and they'll come off much easier.

Oldpath05
Oldpath05's picture

What's your definition of feathering glue? I think one reason why the blades come off is that the urethane band wheel belt starts getting spongy and loosy, so to me some sort of glue/cement makes since if the glue and or cement can be taken back off without using a hammer and or sledge hammer or in my case dynamite if I get upset..

John 6:68 Then Simon Peter answered him, Lord, to whom shall we go? thou hast the words of eternal life.

Bill
Bill's picture

Feathering glue is what you use to stick sanding pads on disk sanders when done you peel the sanding disk off.

Post Oakie
Post Oakie's picture

I have used exactly the same technique as shown in the video, and it works.  The tire does stretch enough.  You can tie it with the zip ties on each side, and stretch one side on by hand.  For the other side, I used a large screwdriver to lever it on.  Lever it on a ways, put on another zip tie to hold it, then lever it on a little farther, and add another zip tie to hold it for the final push.  It does make it easier to remove the band wheel from the sawmill first.

As for temperature limitations on shoe goo, if the band wheels get hot enough to break it down, you've got problems!  I put it on 3 years ago when I changed the tire, and haven't hand any problems since.  Bill's feathering glue sounds like a good idea, too.

Oldpath05
Oldpath05's picture

How much Shoo Glue, will one tube be enough and what about puttint the tires in hot water first? Seems so I heard that somewhere. 

John 6:68 Then Simon Peter answered him, Lord, to whom shall we go? thou hast the words of eternal life.

Post Oakie
Post Oakie's picture

Just a dab of Shoe Goo every couple of inches seems to hold it just fine.  Hot water might help soften the tire-- sure won't hurt!

Oldpath05
Oldpath05's picture

Took a picture and a short video of the band wheel belts, strange that the belt on the left in the pic is still tight, the sawdust shute side is where the spongy feeling is in several places and the band is not at the same height all the way around. Wonder how long it takes to get parts from Norwood? I ordered the band belt tires last Tuesday. I didnt think my tractor would be that loud in the back ground.

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kT2K_RE4UhI

John 6:68 Then Simon Peter answered him, Lord, to whom shall we go? thou hast the words of eternal life.

Oldpath05
Oldpath05's picture

My son got the new Shoe Goo band wheel belts on coulpe weeks ago, blade are staying on now. But now like always another issuse this past Saturday while getting ready to saw some lumbah. While my son was check out the engagement belt tenion, sqeezing the engagement lever............the hook part on the spring on the engagement cable broke, after much hemming and hawring, scating my head, deside try to zap it with the mig welder, I got it zapped but it wasn't easy.

So we finnished out the day sawring but not sure how long my zap weld will hold. Anyone know how much those engament cables cost for a MX34? I'm quite sure that spring is not sold separate and if it was I wouldn't know how to get it on the end of the cable, if the cable is over $100.00 and if the zap weld breaks again I try some more redneck enginenearing

John 6:68 Then Simon Peter answered him, Lord, to whom shall we go? thou hast the words of eternal life.

Post Oakie
Post Oakie's picture

Redneck engineering?  Sounds like duck tape & bungee cords might do the trick.  Good luck.  Problem is, if that weld breaks, it will probably be at the worst possible time.  You migh consider upgrading the MX34 sawmill to the centrifugal clutch.  I did that, and it works great!

Post Oakie
Post Oakie's picture

By the way, you will swear that the urethane tire is too small.  I use the technique that this fellow uses to put on a new tire https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcJAQ9Y5YGY.  The only difference is that I remove the zip ties. smiley

Oldpath05
Oldpath05's picture

Where can I get a centrifugal clutch? I go on the Norwood site and there listings parts for the MX34 anymore, I'm outdated already almost as bad as cellphones and computers. 

John 6:68 Then Simon Peter answered him, Lord, to whom shall we go? thou hast the words of eternal life.

TonyJ
TonyJ's picture

You will have to call Norwood—the kit isn’t listed anywhere, and it took me rwo calls to talk to someone who understood it was a kit. The part number is LM34CCRKIT. My purchase of the kit was mid-June 2018 and the price of the kit was $487 less a special discount of $100 (said they were offering the discount because they were encouraging owners to make the upgrade). I don’t know how long that $100 off will last, but ask for it anyway. The kit comes with the clutch, new belt and idler pulley bracket and all necessary parts. 

I had issue with idler pulley spacer bushing--I had to cut down to decrease width. I didn’t use any of the included spacers.  I’ll also be sourcing a longer clutch mount bolt as the one included only contacts about 5/16” of threads, and I think it should be more. It is a 3/8-24 by 1” long. I’ll be looking for 1-1/4 to 1-1/2” long and will cut to length. 

I ordered new bandwheel tires (they call them belts), and am still waiting for delivery after 3 weeks—supposed to be delivered next week. Four weeks down waiting for replacement tires—that is unacceptable!  Since these don't seem to be available from any other source, they should always be in stock for immediate shipment.  But what do I know?

TonyJ
TonyJ's picture

After my frustrated post about the delivery time on the bandwheel belts, I received a message from [email protected].  He said he was expediting a shipment of bandwheels and apologized for the shipping delay.  I normally do not express dissatisfaction with products or companies on open forums, preferring to deal directly with those that can remedy problems.  My only excuse was that it was late, I was tired and a bit peeved. 

I had still planned to contact Norwood today, but they beat me to it!  I think it is a sign that they do care, and that they do work to resolve customer complaints.

Thank you, Mike!

Oldpath05
Oldpath05's picture

Thanks for the info, so LM34CCRKIT is the kit for MX34 with the bigger 23hp V-twin Briggs? Right now Norwood has to give me more encouragement because in the past 4 weeks I over spent my allowance on car and wood stove maintenance, another $400.00 now is not possible, have to go on my wish list. 

My band wheel belts took almost 3 weeks two months ago and I dont get that, after the sec week I had to call to find out if they was on there way. I've ordered stuff on ebay from Georgia and I got the order in 4 days, anywhere on the east cost is 2-4 days in shipping, so that tells me there something wrong with Norwood when it's time to get parts and those belts are IMPORTANT parts, unexceptable service when a person needs the mill going ASAP, not good advertisement for Norwood. 

John 6:68 Then Simon Peter answered him, Lord, to whom shall we go? thou hast the words of eternal life.

TonyJ
TonyJ's picture

I posted this video on youtube to demo a much easier way to install bandwheel tires.

https://youtu.be/a8YU1bqzQFc

pixgermany01
pixgermany01's picture

Its really nice video .

pixgermany

Oldpath05
Oldpath05's picture

If that's your idea on the video your a genius for finding a better way to get those band wheel belts on, I left a comment saying to use sycone spray at the end so the screwdriver will slide right. I even have the same Dewalt drill, Thanks for posting, some of us are just not that clever.

John 6:68 Then Simon Peter answered him, Lord, to whom shall we go? thou hast the words of eternal life.

TonyJ
TonyJ's picture

As I told a friend, it takes a lazy man to find the easy solutions.  That, and a lack of younger upper body strength!

I came up with the idea after struggling to get the first one on. Discovering that rolling the round screwdriver (a dowel would work) acted as a feed mechanism was the key—that and a very tired hand after getting the first one on.

it’s fun and rewarding to find a simple way to accomplish a difficult task. And a real plus being called a genius!

Bill
Bill's picture

Sure hope I can remember your idea if I ever need to use it Tony " good post".

Post Oakie
Post Oakie's picture

Tony, that's surely not the first amazing idea you've had!  Looks to me like a person could do that without even taking the bandwheel off the sawmill.  First time I replaced the belt was a 2-hour job.  Thanks for saving us all a lot of time & frustration.

TonyJ
TonyJ's picture

You could probably do on the mill by making a 2” arbor to fit in the drill, placing a large flat washer on the shaft next to the drill chuck (which acts as the “stop” that the screwdriver handle provides.  Just put the bottom half of belt on first and secure with zip ties as I have. It is sure worth a try—don’t see why it wouldn’t work.

Oldpath05
Oldpath05's picture

 ^^^^^^^^^^^^

The arbor could be longer than 2", like you say a flat washer on the inside than the out side could be 6", then when the band belt is on rotate the band wheel to the bottom where there's more open inside area to knock it out.

How old is your MX34 and how many times have you replaced the band wheel belts? Also I have a slight play in my band wheels mosly from the bearings not fitting TIGHT on the shaft, do you have that or any play? Any othe mods besides the centrifugal clutch?

 

John 6:68 Then Simon Peter answered him, Lord, to whom shall we go? thou hast the words of eternal life.

TonyJ
TonyJ's picture

The  arbor could be longer, just needs to be short enough to not interfere with the back blade housing.

I think I bought my mill about 7 years ago, and it was less than a year old when I bought it.

This is first time to replace belts.  Last used the mill last fall.  Just moved the mill to a new location where it is under cover for the first time in its life.  When I was going over it to get it running, found the belts had both cracked, split, deteriorated. I didn’t detect any problems last year, but not surprised with this southTexas heat.  I have the same play in the bearings, more so on the idler wheel. I figure as long as kept lubed, they’ll be okay. I think that play is to be expected with this setup—not like there is an axle nut that can be tightened.  Might order some spare bearings just to have on hand.

No other mods on saw other than clutch and a 24” piece of conduit connected to exhaust pipe to prevent backfiring when motor is powering down to idle.  Will be adding a dust chute and bucket to corral sawdust.  

My other other large accessory for the saw was the construction of a Sauno Kiln.  Still tweaking that and will eventually post a thread.  I am milling mesquite almost exclusively.  Built the kiln primarily to make sure all the little borers and bugs are dead.

Oldpath05
Oldpath05's picture

Texas heat,,,,,,,,,,well least it's a dry heat compared to up here in Me. where the humidity can be overwhelming at times. I was going to ask you about what your sawdust plan was, I tried bucket on the shute thing with extra large bucket but it fills so fast, now I just let it pile up on floor then after a little bit I push it out the side of building in to 8'x8' sawdust box then when filled drag it down back little ways then tip it over.

My only addons was an extra frame when bought then later bought the extensions for the bed at both ends, think I'm up around 18+', made 3' long platform at the front end with roller to help get big beams off and dimensionals, couple small log lifts, bout it.  

John 6:68 Then Simon Peter answered him, Lord, to whom shall we go? thou hast the words of eternal life.

TonyJ
TonyJ's picture

I have no idea what dry heat is. My house and work are in Corpus Christi, and my shop is 60 mi inland in the Nueces river valley. When the humidity drops below 50%, I think I’ve moved to the desert. Seriously humid, thick air here. In the summer, can’t pay attention to just the thermometer; it might be only 90 degrees, but with the humidity, the heat index might be 105-110.  Can have heat exhaustion issues very quickly.

Dummy me, can’t even keep track on what I’ve added to this saw.  I also added one extension and purchased the removable 2’ section. I added the trailer package and the dog assist.

I am still going to try the bucket thing.  Where I had the mill before, would just let the sawdust hit the grass—not an issue.  I’ve moved the mill into an overhang in my barn on a slab. Have a system set up to load scrap cutoff as I go into the bed of my UTV.  I figure I can empty the bucket every couple of passes by walking to the edge of the slab and dumping into the grass.  For me, I would prefer that to spending time at the end of day blowing/sweeping.  That’s the plan for now.  I’ll see how it goes.

Those are some nice looking boards in the last pic.  What kind of wood?

Oldpath05
Oldpath05's picture

When I tryed the sawdust bucket, I found that when sawdust goes in so dosen't air, so when air goes in it has to come out but keeps the sawdust in and that was where the bucket idea needs some tweaking form someone who knows how to tweak.

Those are mostly some odds and ends of northern white cedar, when my son mills cedar boards he keeps everything then resaws, bundle up and sells to someone who wants mix and match boards for projects, he used some him self making a cedar crib for his daughter last year. His main business is sawing cedar shingles, I think he's sold some in your state before. Here's an older video of him>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpd3ZOoI7kk

 

John 6:68 Then Simon Peter answered him, Lord, to whom shall we go? thou hast the words of eternal life.

TonyJ
TonyJ's picture

That is one of the scariest operations i’ve seen—can’t believe he relies on muscle/routine memory to retrieve the shingles next to that spinning blade. Wow.

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