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Bill
Bill's picture
Clutch
Well guess it had to happen sooner or later . Started to saw yesterday and the blade quit spinning as soon as it got into the wood with a little investigation figured it was the clutch. Pulled it off and there's no sign of a keyway slot in the clutch or any sign of the keyway stock. How it's been sawing at all I have no idea but I'm now shopping for a new clutch. I'd like to just phone up Norwood and order one but there's none listed on their site and the last time I seen one seems they wanted $200 more than anyone else. I'm having trouble trying to figure out how it spun the keyway out of the clutch but I guess these things happen.
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
If you do a search for 'kohler engine centrifugal clutch belt drive', you will find a couple options. Northern Tool has one.
Bill
Bill's picture
Thank you I'll check them out.
eddiemac
eddiemac's picture
So, what did you do? I ask because I know I'll someday be faced with the same situation.
countryboymike
countryboymike's picture
Murphy did it!!! am sure that all of you know about Murphy,s Law! Whatever can go wrong will go wrong. Murphy and all his/her/the whole clan camp out somewhere around here.
Bill
Bill's picture
The quickest way it seemed I could get one and the price was competitive was from Norwood. I ordered it and was suppose to arrive yesterday by UPS but hasn't showen up. I spent a lot of time on hold when I phoned Norwwod left my no. a few times and no one got back to me so I emailed them and a day or so later Tom phoned me and took the order. They sent it promptly but UPS seems to have a hold up.
Bill
Bill's picture
Update now UPS tracking says it will be here thur. the 17th before the end of the day. Cost $319.20 double the price of a clutch for the last 1 ton truck I had :o).
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
Well, maybe next time you can put in a clutch from an old Oldsmobile or something. While you're at it, upgrade the engine to a Rocket 88 engine; they were pretty nice engines.
Bill
Bill's picture

OK my wining is over new clutch installed and all is well once again. Actual cost of clutch was $227 Canadian + tax and shipping. I had them send a new belt and key-way so that added to the price. The new clutch is 1/4" smaller than the old one so takes a BP91 instead of 92. With the tensioner slacked right off it was a tight fit but the tension is about right. To allow a 1/16" slack front and back I added a thin shim to the motor shaft behind the clutch and 2- 1/8 " to the front. Necessary or not I don't know. Took me a while to re-aline the tensioner so the belt would run true without twisting on the drive wheel , put a blade on made a few cuts and I'm happy.

sawwood
sawwood's picture
Bill did you have any trouble getting the old clutch off? What size belt did you have to go to, looks like I will have to get a shorter one for our mill. I also order new filter spark plus and oil filter. Been a while essence it was done. Cut 4 small logs to day, one walnut and the rest where maple.
Bill
Bill's picture

I was sawing today and discovered the tensioner is now lower with the PB91 belt so I suggest anyone with a LM2000 try using the BP 92 the tensioner if they replace the clutch. May be able to take up enough slack in the belt to work. It has to be bottomed out for the 91.

r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
Here's a thought, Bill. Can you move the tensioner inboard a little, and shim it up? I'm thinking that simply moving it inboard about an inch and lifting it would allow you to cut full width and full depth.
Bill
Bill's picture
Good thought I'll take a look at it today.
kirk
kirk's picture
That looks like a old mill bill, i don't have a oil filter on my kholer 14hp, but your roller brackets look like they are much stronger than mine on my lm29. I been meaning to ask you about that cooks sharpener do you like it, and does it sharpen like they say on their website. I need to invest in a better sharpener, with the wood shortage here in the north east i have been sawing crazy. Red cedar boards are a hot cake getting $2.50 a board ft. Maple slabs $2.25 a board ft. and pine boards $0.85 a board ft.I have some cherry to mill. My brother in law bought a slab of cherry 2 inches thick 15 inches wide 5 feet long $60.00 a piece.If I figured it right about $4.25 a board ft.Thinking on retiring from the concrete business and start milling full time. HA HA don't think the wife will approve.
Bill
Bill's picture
I'm still on a bit of a learning curve Kirk when it comes to shaping the stone and making the adjustments for light grinds. I've done 6 or 7 blades so far and they cut fine but they cut well with the Norwood sharpener as well. It's nice that once it's going I can leave it and do something else. Sounds like your doing well with your mill, my orders come in waves there are a lot of mills in this area and from the adds I see some charge an arm and a leg others sell far to cheap to make any money. Best of luck on what ever you decide.
sawwood
sawwood's picture
We have a Mark 4 Norwood and I think my clutch is about ready to go. I will look for a new one but what size can I get to in crease the blade speed. I have to push the mill harder then I think I should. I have checked the frame and it is straight and level. The motor is running at 3600 so I know that is working ok.
LATHAM FARMS
LATHAM FARMS's picture
I looked for a new larger clutch a few years ago, i always felt it was to small because it was hard to pull down the engine even with a dull blade (20 hp honda) and i always thought i had to push to hard through the cut. seems the largest clutch i could find anywhere is 5 inch. It is a funny thing that no matter what engine you opted for on your mill it comes with the same clutch diameter. you would think larger mill engine, more hp, they would up the blade rpm. My mill (lm2000) was starting to get up there in years so i decided to make myself happy with its operation. I lowered the engine and put a 7 in ( maby 7 and a quarter) diameter pully on it. down side is its direct drive now, up side is it cuts like hot knife through butter and easy to push. another thing i found after the fact is i added a tach to the engine and found that from the factory the engine was set at full throttle at around 3000 rpm... its a little work to do sawwood but i think you would like its operation.
LATHAM FARMS
LATHAM FARMS's picture
Bill
Bill's picture
I'm pleased it works well for you. Why I,m not happy with the clutch is once you modify it you loose some thing else eg. you can no longer saw 8" above the blade which I never realized I did often enough to miss it now.
Bill
Bill's picture
Going bigger would increase the speed but you'd loose power and it would also put the belt higher than the drive wheel. An extra hump for the blade to travel over. If possible try and stick to the same size.
sawwood
sawwood's picture
I checked the clutch on our mark 4 and it is a 4" clutch. I then checked the math and I see the blade is running at 4250 fpm. If i buy that clutch on Ebay it is a 5" ant that would bring the fpm up to 5100. Is that going to be to much? I did check to see if that 5" clutch would work where the motor is mounted and it would. If I did go with the 5" clutch could i just drop down the rpm some to may be 4800fpm. Sawwood
Bill
Bill's picture
If the 5" will work on your saw I wouldn't be to concerned about the increased fpm. Latham Farms said the increased speed worked for him.
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
I wouldn't drop the RPM down, because I don't believe the blade speed is the biggest limiter. I have a second mill (Timberking) that has a faster blade speed. The limit will be the torque, not the blade speed. If you drop your RPM, I suspect your torque will drop, making that a worse choice. I would check your engine RPM, and see what is the best spot for torque for that engine.
Bill
Bill's picture
Sawwood I had no trouble getting the old clutch off maybe because the key stock was sheered off other than that the clutch had no real sign of wear but had been grabbing on occasion while idling. You may have to spray some penetrating oil on it and pry the clutch off gently if the key way is rusted a bit. You'll be able the measure the size for a new belt with a piece of string then add 1/2" or so. BTW Rholand I looked at moving the tensioner back but then the belt gets in the road for sawing cants without more frigging around moving them back from the log stops. Since the belt was $50 I'll wear it out then go for a longer one so I can raise the tensioner.
sawwood
sawwood's picture
thanks Bill. I did put a new belt last spring and could only find one that was longer. so the motor is all the way over. going to put a shorter one so the oil filter will clear the wheel cover, had to bend it out some to fit the oil filter. Thanks all for all the replies.
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