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kirk
kirk's picture
lap siding and shingle attachment
Is there anyone out there that has purchased the the lap siding attachment? I have access to some white cedar trees, this new tariff bundles of shingles have gone thru the roof.
kirk
kirk's picture
Does anyone out there have any input on that lap siding and shingle attachment? Is it worth purchasing or not.
RW Moore
RW Moore's picture
Kirk, I have the siding and shingle attachment, picked it up durng the Norwood online garage sale, believe it was a demo unit. Bought it to cut white cedar ship lap. Unit works ok but I find with the accuracy of the mill, cutting 1/2" to 3/4" thick cuts (with no taper) works as well or better with less set up and adjustment between cuts. I haven't cut any shingles but I intend to block some white cedar kerfs to cut decorative shingles for a friend wanting to replace diamond and semi-circular shingles. With the discounted garage sale price I could justify the cost, not sure I would have paid out full price without enough work to justify the cost.
kirk
kirk's picture
thank you maybe i will wait for a garage sale
DavidM
DavidM's picture
I haven’t tried the siding/shingle attachment, but I did mill some 3/4” x 6” siding and routered the bottom edge 3/8” deep by 1”. I used it on a friends pump house and it worked out really nice. It really didn’t take a lot of work to run the router down one edge of each board but it might be worth buying the attachment if you were going to make very much siding. Don’t really see a short cut for shingles lol.
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
I've thought of using the router or a power hand plane to do the edge; I never have because as DavidM says, it is a lot of work.
RW Moore
RW Moore's picture
A dado blade set up on the table saw provides a quicker way to run a rabbet on the back side of ship lap siding. A siding jig can also be set up to provide consistent lapping where the is no rabbet or groove to align successive siding strips.
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
For a siding jig, I've used a pair of sticks with screws every 6" or 8". I set the bottom edge of the siding on one pair of screws, then the next, etc. Screws work better than nails because the threads keep the boards from slipping off.
Bill
Bill's picture
I made enough lap siding to do a large barn and it didn't take long. Made cant's the length and width ( 9.5" ) then cut 2 wedges that would give me the 7/8" to 1/4" taper (angle) put a pencil mark on them at the right spot and just slide them under every other cut. It all came out perfectly uniform and the contractor got me to cut enough for 2 reno's he had where I had to match the width and bevel of the existing siding and the wedges slide in the right distance. Fast and easy set up.
DavidM
DavidM's picture
As usual I’ve learned something new lol. Dado is sure a lot easier than a router, and Bills homegrown siding jig would really work good. I’m trying to get enough lumber cut to build me a shop - I think I’ll us Bills idea to cut siding and save some money. A guy is posted an ad and I picked up some very big pine trees just for the effort of cutting them - should make some good siding from the smaller logs.
kirk
kirk's picture
i like that idea bill going to give it a shot. looks like i"ll get some time to mill if they shut down construction do to this covid 19.
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