You are here

41 posts / 0 new
Last post
retiredJack
retiredJack's picture
power feed and power up and down LM 29

Over the years this topic has been brought up many times. This winter I decided to do something about it. I finally found inexpensive 12 volt gear reduction motors with the right rpm for both the carriage and head up and down. Plus very reasonable 12-36 volt variable speed controllers. I also engineered it so that in less than an hours work it could be put back to all manual operation.I cant seem to figure out how to turn the  pictures but please look them over best you  can. Not much sawing as yet but so far the speeds are on the money plus the variable speed 0 to 100% is really neat. when sawing the mill seems to be a lot smoother than when pushing by hand. I spent around $200 for everthing to do this project. A litttle welding for a mounting plate for the carraige motor and had to drill a 7/16 hole 1 inch deep on the i inch shaft where the raising handle was. If their is interest please respnd with questions here or in private and I will try to help anyone that would like to persue this Modification.  Enough for now.  Jack

Bill
Bill's picture

Those are great mods Jack TY for taking the time to post them.

retiredJack
retiredJack's picture
thanks for righting the pic Bill but the second one is weird like its backwards or a mirror image shot or something. I wish posting pictures could be easier on old guys like me.
Bill
Bill's picture

retiredJack
retiredJack's picture
thanks Bill
Bill
Bill's picture
Your welcome Jack, it looks much better when correct :o) It's nice to see others ingenuity .
retiredJack
retiredJack's picture
Bill, This forum has been so slow for some time. I really thought these changes I made might get some others interested. Finding these motors and speed controllers so reasonable makes it a really inexpensive way to upgrade any mill really. With my old age it has gotten where after cranking the head up and down all day my worn out right shoulder really hurts. On ebay the head motor was $21 and speed controller $15, carriage motor $23 plus another speed controller, which also has a reversing switch. The only warning I have is even though the speed controller is rated for 60 amps it says to do a soft start meaning one switch for direction then turn the pot from 0 up to the desired speed showing digital readout 0 to 100%. I also added limit micro switches on the carriage for return and forward. When you throttle up it then activates your forward motion when you turn up the potentiometer (only if you have your handle up with the blade up to speed). Full speed is around 1 foot a second and sawing I found a setting of around 40% in pine so far. If anything goes wrong you just let go of the handle and everything stops just like you have now. On return you set the speed and it shuts off when it gets back to the back in. I used #40 roller chain two idler sprockets and one drive sprocket on the carriage. I'll try to add some more pictures. Jack
retiredJack
retiredJack's picture

The speed controller is rated for 12-36 volts input and 60 amps output with I believe 40 amps continuous. I found the head raising to draw around 14 amps and 4 descending. The carriage motor around 5 amps no load at all.
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
retiredJack, I am in awe of your skill and knowledge. You done good. I will keep mine manual for now, because I enjoy the hands-on part. However, I will keep this in mind.
Bill
Bill's picture
Because I really like fiddling and modifying I've had basically the same thing in mind you've done Jack but I would have a lot to learn about all the components. I have collected a few parts eg, tread mill motor and controller as well as a few other parts but have never had the time to devote to the project when I was physically healthy. Possibly when my hands and wrists get better I'll tackle the job and contact you when ever I get stumped.
retiredJack
retiredJack's picture
I fully understand the aches and pain thats why I decided to modify. I have studied some of your ideas that you have applied Bill and feel that what I just did is a piece of cake for you to do. I also have been playing around with several treadmill motors and speed controllers and put one on my old delta rockwell wood lath. It works super well. I couldn't use them on the mill easily tho because they are all direct drive and to high an rpm and 0 -90 volts. 0 to 3000-4000 rpm and The ones I'm using are geared to 50-60 rpm at 12 volts which is ideal. 12 volts will run the treadmill motors but there is no torque.
retiredJack
retiredJack's picture
Mr. Garrison When the ol aches and pain set in you might change your mind. With my mill on the trailer the bed is at about 20 inches high, just right for working the log and such but it put the head crank so high it really stretched out the shoulder and arm. I must have rotor cuff wear because it really hits me hard after an afternoon of sawing. Hey we're haven fun right?
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
I already have the aches, but they are from arthritis; when I do things, I ache less. When I do too much, I ache more. So, I have to keep the balance.
shaneh
shaneh's picture
I am in the same boat as Bill. You have done an awesome job Jack
retiredJack
retiredJack's picture

A picture of the gear and chain setup

Bill
Bill's picture
looks good Jack !!
retiredJack
retiredJack's picture
Thanks Bill Am in private contact with another member and would like to send him private pictures cant seem to do it can it be done?
Bill
Bill's picture
Probably easier by email it's what I've done in the past.
Baron
Baron's picture
Nice Deal Jack, I wore out my arm on the last job cutting Ash for five days. Not sure I would like auto feed on this mill but the 'Up'n Downage' needs held for sure. I'm not ready to do anything and won't be this year, schedule is full, but perhaps next winter I'll be calling on you. Hey please do us a favor: Please don't refer to Garrison as Mr. or we'll never hear the end of it ;-)
retiredJack
retiredJack's picture
Hey ,Nice to see you are still around Baron. Ok I'll try to be more careful on my choice of words.Ha I have been sawing pine since the Mods and now wish I had done it six years ago but at that time I didn't have the working knowledge with sawmills that I have now. I've always been an experimental-ler and fabricator so since electronic devices have become so affordable this winter I went for it and am very happy with the results. variable speed on the head setting is really smooth and exact. As far as carriage drive I also highly recommend it.Pushing by hand I found out can be very erratic as the load changes in a cut but with the potentiometer you can fine adjust your speed to the cut and it makes for a very smooth operation. Every evening my poor ol 77 year old body thanks me for giving it a break.
Baron
Baron's picture
Don't forget, at 61, that I'm one of the youngsters on this forum. I agree it will be nice to have the auto feed but I only cut severely screwy local tree service lumber with various needs and like having the control. one of the things I'd also like to have is heavy duty adjustable log rests and a more trustworthy clamping system.
Bill
Bill's picture
X 2 on the log rests !!!
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
OK, I'll look into ideas on aftermarket log rests. How about something that is a sleeve that you can stuff a 2X2 board you cut into, with a bottom to the pocket. Something with a thumbscrew on the back, so you can adjust for windage. Since your rest is made of lumber, you can just cut through it. For the dog side, I'll need a couple days to think about it.
retiredJack
retiredJack's picture

Is this what you guys are talking about? A rough mockup with a 2x4 but to get the samebackstop as the metal one and to clear the roller guide it would have to be under 3 inches to clear. Also some mods to the existing bolt pattern. Hey something to work on and an idea. A simple trailer stake pocket.

 

Baron
Baron's picture
Uh Oh Jack. Roland was kidding as we were ribbing him some years ago about one of his early modification dreams. He was trying to figure out how to make a cut-able log rest. If I'm not mistaken back then, as today, I have a history of hitting the log rest with the blade. Some of us are more consistent than others. I've consistently cut Log rests.
retiredJack
retiredJack's picture
Ha Ya got me But you gotta admit you guys got me thinking. and it would work but never with the precision of steel. Well I did it I fired her up and did cut the 2x off to make it shorter. Really tho as I did all this I really can't see the application for it. I've cut the tops of my log rests also but having a good welding machine I usually fixem before anybody gets to see them
retiredJack
retiredJack's picture
Also At least I have finally figured out how to post pictures
Baron
Baron's picture
I leave my battle scars exposed (I don't have a welder). folks feel sorry and throw money in the cup.
retiredJack
retiredJack's picture
ya got me once but ya ain't gettin me twice
Bill
Bill's picture

I added this log post Jack for when I cut long logs it's solid and you don't want to try and saw it off. The top is angled to help when rolling logs and I turn it around once I get down to thinner boards.

r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
RetiredJack, That's exactly what I was thinking, but I was also thinking of putting a bolt in the back top, so you could push it over at an angle a bit. I guess jamming a wooden wedge down the back would do something similar. That could help you square it up a bit.

Pages

Facebook icon
Twitter icon
LinkedIn icon
YouTube icon