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Monart Farms
Monart Farms's picture
Sawmill blades

Hello. I have an HD36 V2 mill. I am just in the process of learning how to get the most out of it. I am cutting mostly planted pine and spruce 10-16" diameter. I bought a bunch of blades up front but will be need to begin sharpening/replacing soon. I have a few questions that I am hoping someone can help with: 1. How many sharpenings can I expect to do before I should scrap a blade; 2. Does anyone know anyone in the Toronto/Barrie/Collingwood/Guelph area that sharpens blades; 3. How hard is it for a reasonably handy/familiar with power tool guy to do a decent job sharpening/setting teeth with the sharpener and setter that Norwood sells. Thanks for any help in response to any/all of the above.

Scott F.
Scott F.'s picture

I don't want you to feel ignored; I noticed that you still have not received any responses.
I do not sharpen my own blades yet so I cannot give you first hand info on that. I just got my LM30 completed and have not made it through the first sharp blade yet.
There are plenty of YouTube videos that deal specifically with sawmill blade sharpening, just type that into your search box and you should be able to get some really good info. I personally like "Sawing with Sandy" the best and he has a few videos on that subject.
Hopefully my comment will stir up some more replies for you and perhaps someone a lot more experienced in the matter than me.
Best of luck to you.

Scott F.
Palmetto State

Bill
Bill's picture
I used a Norwood semi auto sharpener for yrs. and made my own setter they both worked quite well. You can expect at least 1/2 doz. sharpening's I've got up to a doz. I usually quit when the blade brakes or won't saw straight any more. I only set after every 3 or 4 sharpening's.
Storm
Storm's picture

Could not remember password account so I created a new one and new name also. Old Pete here . Well I finally made the the cam lock for the the old mill, LM2000 went from wooden & plastic parts lol then swap out to metal to some photos and the log is NOT fancy or painted. It is only a working item not to made as a show piece.It works but a little stiff yet . So I got to wear it in. Only got a angle grinder & a little mig welder, a bench drill press and tape measure with a lead penscel have no fancy tools only work with what I have. Well I will try to post some photos. I tried and file to big or no TXT can you send me a note to ( ) then I will try to send it to your yahoo.com account ,If you dont have then can you make one up and I will reply. TY.

Scott F.
Scott F.'s picture

Thanks Bill,
That is a lot more sharpenings than I thought I would be able to get. This has me rethinking about get a sharpener as opposed to paying someone.

Scott F.
Palmetto State

Ruben Keyes
Ruben Keyes's picture

I use the Woodmizer blades only and their resharp programs. Not use any of the other manufactures.

Scott F.
Scott F.'s picture

Ruben, I thought they had stopped providing that service, was I misinformed?
If that is what you use then you obviously think it is worth it, perhaps I should check into it.

Scott F.
Palmetto State

Ruben Keyes
Ruben Keyes's picture

Not sure, but maybe!!

Bill
Bill's picture
Woodmizer blades here are reasonably priced.
kirk
kirk's picture
Hi bill nice to see in the forum with all the spam I have been laxed in checking out things on the forum. I did do a major uplift with my mill, adding on and enclosing the mill i will try and get some pics out.
kirk
kirk's picture
I purchased the bms250 sharpener from woodmizer and a tooth setter from cook's sawmills. I use the 9 degree and 10 degree blades silver tip on the 10 degree and the double hard alloy for 9 degree, Great for hard wood and knotty pine. Like bill said i use them till they break. I enjoy sharpening my owe, i have control of when i want to do them. Don't have to worry about shipping cost and long waiting time for turn around.
kirk
kirk's picture
If you are going to do a lot of milling my owe opinion purchase a sharpener. Good Luck
Bill
Bill's picture
Hi Kirk, good advice. I may be missing new member posts because if I don't recognize a name I just go to the bottom corner of the page and click all forums read.
Scott F.
Scott F.'s picture

Ok, you guys have convinced me. I will be putting a blade sharpener and tooth setter on my Widh List.
My wife loves me so I don't have to wish for long.
On second thought, maybe she just loves me being gone to the mill.

Scott F.
Palmetto State

Scott F.
Scott F.'s picture

WISH List, not Widh list.

Scott F.
Palmetto State

Bill
Bill's picture
It's nice to have sharp blades Scott , with the sharpener I change mine as soon as then appear to slow down some times 3 times a day.
Post Oakie
Post Oakie's picture
You can get by with a couple of sharpenings before you need to re-set the teeth. Norwood (and others) sell tooth setters, as well. The blades I use are set in a repeating pattern of down .020", level, and up .020". You reduce that slightly, every time you sharpen the blade, unless you re-set. Only the 1/8" or so of the tip of the blade is hardened steel. Once you grind that away, the blade won't hold an edge. Be sure to inspect the gullets of a blade for cracks before sharpening (discard any blades with cracks). When you order blades, make sure the metal thickness is .042: thicker than that makes for a stiffer blade that is more likely to develop fatigue cracks as they go around the bandwheels.

Good judgement comes from experience... experience comes from bad judgement.

Scott F.
Scott F.'s picture

Thank you for the info; I have gone through 4 blades already (I know that is not a lot, I only saw for my projects) so I will have to make a decision soon. By the way, has anyone told you that you look like the guy on Norwoods "Sawmill TV" series?

Scott F.
Palmetto State

Post Oakie
Post Oakie's picture
One and the same.

Good judgement comes from experience... experience comes from bad judgement.

Scott F.
Scott F.'s picture

I want to take the opportunity to personally thank you for all that you have taught me, although I was very inexperienced I felt very confident in cutting my first log into lumber after watching the videos that you produced. You are an excellent teacher.

Scott F.
Palmetto State

Post Oakie
Post Oakie's picture
Awwww, thanks. There are some excellent teachers here on the forum, & I learned a lot here. You'll love the mill, and pretty soon you'll be dishing out advice & sharing experience, too.

Good judgement comes from experience... experience comes from bad judgement.

Geoff
Geoff's picture
Hello fellow sawyers. I have a HD 36 with hydraulics. Recently I now can’t use my log rotater or my rear toe board? I have topped up my fluid tank,greased the moving parts, tightened my alternator belt but still no action. The weird part is my log loader, front toe board, log stops(3) and log turner will rise up but won’t rotate. Those are the working parts which I don’t understand why the others don’t work. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.