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kirk
kirk's picture
tension wear

has anyone have these issues lm 29

r.garrison1
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I have an LM29, and I've not had any issue like this. I'm trying to think what would cause it, and the only thing I can think is something isn't quite right on how the wheel is adjusting. Do you feel a lot of vibration when your saw is running, but not cutting into wood? I find if I am a bit gentle pushing into the log, I can use one hand to push the saw through. Do you have any other issues, such as wavy cuts? If you are pushing into the cut too much, I would think this could be a result. I try to cut so that one hand can manage the saw most of the time. What wood do you tend to cut? Hardwood or softwood?
kirk
kirk's picture
wavy boards thru knots
kirk
kirk's picture
i use a 7/8 pitch 10 degree blade for Norwood i have better cuts thru knots with a 3/4 pitch 7 degree blade. cutting eastern white pine when i put a new blade on i tension up 4 1/2 to 5 turns and manual rotate wheel and check tracking i usually adjust so gulit is even with belt on band wheels.
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
I adjust about the same (the gullet measurement), but for tension, I tighten as far as it goes, then back off a turn. I may be a bit tight. When I push down on the blade halfway between blade guides, it is pretty firm. Does yours deflect much if you push on the middle of the blade? I would wonder if the free wheel has the chance to bounce around a bit during the cut.
kirk
kirk's picture
I will try that and get back to you. i wonder now if i was not tensioning up enough. Garrison when you tighten up as far as it goes is that black bolt bottomed out all the way to the end.
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
It feels like it; at least something is hitting a stop. Either that shiny metal button (the one at the bottom of your picture) or the crank handle. If I can't turn it with one hand, I call that tight. Then I back off one turn. One other thing I thought of; my deck may be a little tighter, also. When I loosen the blade, it loosens a little, then the handle spins out rather than the blade getting looser. I have to give the handle a pretty firm nudge to move it in.
kirk
kirk's picture
i have to do the same thing when loosening. i could be tighting to much i use two hands i start with turning the handle till the blade touches the roller then go 4 and half to 5 turns. i m going to weld metal pieces along side of the bolt and pin top and bottom to keep it aligned
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
One thing I just thought about; it looks like both holes are wearing on opposite sides. It looks like the band wheel is trying to toe in. When you have the blade tensioned, with the cover off, how much play do you have in your wheel? Maybe the bearings on the wheel are shot.
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
I took a close look at mine, and I noticed a bit of the same; not nearly as pronounced, but this time I had my glasses on and the holes are actually slightly out of balance.The black one is noticeable, the other one is barely off. Funny how it looks normal when I don't have my glasses... I guess I'm getting old.
kirk
kirk's picture
i have no play in bearings i thought that to i think it is thin metal there. i am going to take the bolt and pin out and welk another plate on each side top and bottom. same wear underneath. cheap steal i think for the torque that is put on the band wheel. I have a question you said you use silver tip blades 7 degree what pitch 3/4 or 7/8 . i think i did a no/no i sharpened my blades that were 10 degree and sharpened them to 7 degree 7/8 pitch they cut like shit wavy i think that was my problem. i think blades at 7 degree must be 3/4 pitch what are your thoughts
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture

I buy 10 degree 7/8" pitch. I also bought a box of their DoubleHard at 9 degrees and 7/8" pitch. Those did pretty well on the white oak.

kirk
kirk's picture
Have you ever change your band wheel bearings? I going to send norwood that picture and see what they think
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
I haven't. I do frequently squeeze enough grease into them to make it come out the edge, so the hubs are pretty dirty, but the move easily.
kirk
kirk's picture
i grease every time i mill. I welded the plates and no change i probably have to tighten up more on tensioner i get a waving cut going thru knots i watch the roller on the drive side when it stops as i am cutting already know it dived.Have you ever changed your roller? I am going to order a box of silver tip blades see if that works better than them saber tooth for norwood
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
Yeah, I have changed the roller bearings a couple times. Here's a thread on the bearings. https://www.norwoodsawmills.com/forum/norwood-equipment-forum/roller-gui...
kirk
kirk's picture
i have change the bearing you ever replace the brass roller? Another question you ever try to level the blade by adjusting tracking like the guy does on norwood videos
Bill
Bill's picture
The rollers are steel Kirk . I swapped them around a few years ago because then one on the idler side was wearing a bit at the back . When it dives before a knot it's because it's following the grain slow down 3 or 4" before the knot then speed back up.
RyanC
RyanC's picture
I have the LM29 and use the Sabertooth 10deg 3/4 from Norwood. I have never experienced the damage in your picture. I typically mill hardwoods like ash around here but did experience some wavy cuts when first switching to pine. To correct the issue I found i really had to ensure the mill was in alignment. I typically level the mill and then measure the distance from the blade to each bunk (left and right at each bunk) to make sure its level everywhere. Then i found i had to slow down in the softer wood, as Bill said it will dive in the knots but a slower cut rate seemed to solve the issue for me
kirk
kirk's picture
i have been using 7/8 pitch have better luck sometimes with 3/4 blades cutting soft wood. i also level all the bunks and mill is running true at a 10 ft log have no deflection, but i also put blocks under every bunk because of rolling big logs then 2 bolts don;t hold to good rolling oak boards
kirk
kirk's picture
have you ever put new rollers bill? i just purchased blades from wood-mizer silvertips garrison said he has good luck with them plus bought 15 of them. a lot cheaper than sabertooth blades. maybe i am to fussy i get an 1/16 to 1/8 dip at some knots.
Bill
Bill's picture
Your not to fussy Kirk 1/16" dip I don't think is acceptable. No I'm still using the original rollers that came with the mill and only replaced 1 bearing so far. I've had the same issue as your having in the passed but managed to over come it just can't remember exactly how in order to explain it to you.
kirk
kirk's picture
Well i will try your way bill slow down before the knots these pines i am milling are maybe 2 weeks old from being cut down. Going to try these new blades from wood mizer. Woulda drive belt have anything to do with it? Tried a belt from napa auto parts the drive belt works but the idler belt kept throwing the blade off just turning it by hand.
Bill
Bill's picture
If the idler belt threw off the blade either it wasn't tensioned enough or the tracking needed adjusting. I've used a no. of belts from Napa & other stores they all worked.Drive belt wouldn't effect the blade rising or diving but the set in the teeth may .
kirk
kirk's picture
I did adjust the tracking like every blade I change and turn it by hand and flies off. Tension 4-5 turns see some people crank it up.
RyanC
RyanC's picture
Second on checking the bandwheel alignment, I like the string method in the manual seems to work great for me. I think that may contribute to the wear damage you are seeing For tensioning, I like to turn the Handle right to the point where the spring starts to compress than do 5-1/2 to 5-3/4 turns. It seems to be the seeet spot for my mill. Goodluck
kirk
kirk's picture
I did the string trick in the beginning,when I put on new blade I tension up till blade hits roller then 41/2 /5 turns then adjust tracking maybe I need-to tension up more
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
I found that when my trailing roller was knocked off kilter that I had a lot of wavy cuts. If the trailing roller and the lead roller aren't the same height from the bunk, even just a little, that makes a difference. When I try and stuff too wide of a cut through the mill, and I bend the mount for the trailing roller, things get strange.
wbrent
wbrent's picture
Just checked my LM29 and I too have those two wear spots. Not quite as bad but noticeable. Definitely gonna keep an eye on it now. Btw I have tried belts from auto stores and they do not work for me either. They are not quite the same shape. Norwood of course says they are definitely not the same. But what are they going to say. There’s two ways to adjust the tension on that belt. My mill is two years old now. Used moderately. Still on the same belt. Still adjustment left.
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