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kirk
kirk's picture
Tooth setter
What do you guys recommend for a tooth setter? I have been shopping around but i figured i ask you folks. Does anyone know what the thickness of the sabertooth blades are?
eddiemac
eddiemac's picture
I bought a used Woodmizer setter (single-tooth). It looks much like every other company's basic setter - heavy steel with a dial indicator. Works o.k, but slow.
Bill
Bill's picture

I made my own years ago works like Eddie's but like he said slow . The saber tooth seem to be the same thickness of any other blade.

Bill
Bill's picture

jmanatee
jmanatee's picture
I ended up buying the cooks manual single tooth setter
retiredJack
retiredJack's picture
nice setup on your setter Bill Its so easy to get teeth knocked out of set we all need a setter but bought ones are so expensive like everything else.
kirk
kirk's picture
nice job bill, i see no one bought one from norwood, i seen the one on cooks web site i think i might go with that one just wanted to see about blade thickness cooks will take a blade thickness of 0.49. thank you all for the input.
Bill
Bill's picture
I like the Cooks duel one as well that does everything but darn your socks. I would definitely buy it if I could justify it :o)No need to flip the blade 2 teeth at a time with each handle sure make short work of setting blades. But because I keep the logs fairly clean I seldom have to set and some bands never get set.
kirk
kirk's picture
do you debark your logs? the spruce i been cutting the bark is very thick and rough, i try to clean them with a stiff brush and run a metal detector down the log hit a few nails that where buried in the log.
shaneh
shaneh's picture
Although I don’t set a lot I use the Norwood setter with very little problem..simple but effective
eddiemac
eddiemac's picture
I set every time I sharpen. The hardwoods around here are hard on blades. But I just cut 900 bd/ft of cedar. What a difference - like a vacation in Hawaii compared to oak.
Bill
Bill's picture
For sure Eddie, I've cut pine and cedar all day a few times with no blade change almost can run with the saw.
kirk
kirk's picture
eddie have you ever change your roller guides at all? i can"t justify paying norwood 66.oo dollars for one. wonder if i can press out that bearing and find a new one around my area and press it in.
r.garrison1
r.garrison1's picture
I've replaced mine on the LM-29, with bearings from a local parts house. the box says National 203-ff. I seem to recall the bearings were about $10.00.
Bill
Bill's picture
Kirk I posted the pics here once how to do that job but no longer have them on my puter. Just press the bearing out using a vice and a socket the size of the bearing and press a new one in no more than $10 like Rholand said.
kirk
kirk's picture
thank you that is a lot cheaper
eddiemac
eddiemac's picture
I've done the same. Those are very common bearings. Before I put cheap new ones in, I remove the rubber seal and add a dab of good grease to make them last longer. Put the seals back on and press or hammer in the bearings (only along the outside edge, of course). The rollers will, in time, wear down enough that it becomes necessary to replace them.
Bill
Bill's picture
Or just take the roller to a machine shop and have them reface the back lip ( ledge) where it rubs on the back of the blade.
kirk
kirk's picture
I did want you mentioned took them out in the vise , went to the auto parts store match the numbers which is a common bearing and replaced all 4 for $ 38.oo dollars which made a big difference thanks a bunch gentlemen.
Bill
Bill's picture
Good to hear Kirk !!
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