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DaveM's picture

kdm536....All I can say is that Norwood has been a textbook example of customer service.  I would think that with a cobalt blade, if you sent it to them for evaluation & it was indeed faulty that they would replace it & shipping charges.  If it is not the blade......I guess it's on you.  All I am saying is that if any issue was their fault they have been very fair.   And no...I have no connection to Norwood other than owning one of their mills.

kdm536's picture

Thanks.   I will change the blades first to see whether this crease is affecting anything and then go from there.  Like I said, my waves could very well be dry spots in the dead log I was cutting.   I am going to try to use it a lot this weekend and will go through the recommendations within this thread.  Thanks again!

countryboymike's picture

I built the Hd 36 last summer (yr ago) and am still learning.   Last winter we cut a bunch of White Pine that were over 70 ft tall and 30 inches in diam.   We left them lay until late summer and are sawing them now.  Still very wet, but the bark peeled over the summer.   Very easy to cut (like butter).   I have not had to use any water or pine sol.  Very little sap.  It was a different story early last spring when i dropped the trees.   Most of the logs were cut to 16 ft and that is close tolerence on my mill.  When ever the cut got wavy it was a knot and/or time to change the bandsaw blade.  The mill is fully hyd and i would recommend any of you (mature guys)  invest in that.   Extra $, but even with a backhoe, articulated loader and a forklift around.   A lot less heavy labor.   You can still move the sawed lumber and get your exercise.  smiley

eddiemac's picture

I doubt I'll ever be a "mature guy", but old I am.  We don't have pine here (wish we did), but I've sawn alot of our native softwood, red cedar.  The sap is very sticky when freshly cut, but disappears if you let the logs sit for a couple of months, so that's what I like to do if possible.  On the subject of wavy cuts, I don't normally have that problem on my LM2000 unless the band is dull or poorly sharpened.  But there are some times when it seems impossible to get a straight cut.  That's happened to me with very hard woods such as seasoned osage orange (hedge) and extremely dry white oak. 

jordan Howat
jordan Howat's picture

Guys, while blade tension and all other things mentioned are important, I have found that wavy boards can also come from the hold down bearings on the underside of the rails. Even though I string my rails and bunks and level my mill, you can still get some lifting and chining of your saw head. Make sure they are close, if not tight.... and in good shape. I replaced mine with higher quality roller bearings.

r.garrison1's picture

Check the set of the teeth. The cobalt blade may be hard enough to go through nails, but it may kick a tooth out of whack. I would suspect from what you describe (a dark spot, and the cut is bad after that), that you may have hit a rock or nail.

Bill MacLellan
Bill MacLellan's picture

I just finished with this problem, after 5 years or so sawing I started having this issue with some blades, seems new blades don't come with proper set. Brand new out of the box only have 18, 19 thou. Not 21, 22 they need. Check your set even brand new blades.

fmac's picture
Recently I have had a problem on my lumber mate, yes antique now, but it has run a lot of logs. When I am cutting large logs and some smaller ones, the saw starts to vibrate from side to side and appears also to dip. I have changed blades, slowed feed and nothing helps.. Anyone had this problem? Fmacjerry
eddiemac's picture
Sounds like you are cutting very hard wood with a sharp blade. I have a LM2000 and cut a lot of oak, frequently hard and dry. Head-shake is a common occurrence, especially with really sharp blades with a lot of hook angle. Dipping is probably a blade problem unless the frame is not aligned or well-supported.


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