Trying a new method of stickering lumber for drying. I use shorter lengths of 2x4's spaced at 16" then stack the boards on them, adding stickers over the 2x4's. After a log or two, I screw upright 2x4's on both sides to all the bottom 2x4's. Then I clamp and press the top 2x4 down and then screw it into place, boxing in all the slabs. The only movement possible comes from shrinkage. The pictures are of some walnut I'm currently cutting.

I've had my HD36 for about 4 years now and love it, but I no longer have the patience for air drying. I am looking to build a variation of the Virginia Tech solar kiln but I can't find any guidelines on the operation of the kiln. When should the vents be open and closed, is there a rule of thumb based on the humidity of the boards compared to the air etc.? I am a retired engineer so I have been know to "over think sometimes, maybe it's as simple as vents closed for the first 3 weeks and wide open the next 3 weeks... anybody have and input on "Vent operations"? Thanks RD

I just picked up about 30+ logs with the agreement I'd cut a mantle and build a table with a little extra for the table. Is it better to let the log dry, then mill or mill so the slabs have as much air exposure (I think I answered my own question). They don't want it until the end of the year. Is it the same on larger pieces? I cut another mantle 8"x12"x6' out of white oak, painted the ends and it has terrible cracks/checks after about 2-3 weeks. Thanks, Chris

So I'm new to milling. I had a pine log that was green that I made some stickers out of so I could start milling some oak logs I had. Stickers were 1" x 3/4".

 

I cut them, stacked them, left them outside a couple weeks to air dry.

 

I noticed on the oak slabs , wherever the stickers were, is a lighter color than the rest of the oak slab. Is this okay? Is that considered stained? How deep would that go?

 

Hello all my name is Rob and I'm new here (if all plans go as planned i'll be ordering a HD36 Hydro in the AM) WooooHOOOOO

In the meantime anybody have and experiance with RF Kilns? 

I'm planning on building a lumber shed to air dry my lumber and was wondering if I can use fresh cut southern pine. I also thought about doing it using mortises and tenons. Any thoughts?

Has anyone read the article on page 22 of this months sawmill and wood lot management magazine. It's got me confused on a few things

Hi All,

 

I am recently new to the sawmilling world.  I just bought my MN26 the end of last year and am learning the great amount of information everybody has posted to this forum which is awesome, many thanks to everybody.  I'm from western Ohio and have a family farm in eastern Ohio.  I have been a woodworker starting when I was a kid carving spoons, bowls etc.  I have always loved to work wood and built things, am have finally been able to make my sawmill dream a reality.

I'm not saying it is hot and humid here in southwest Missouri, but in the 24 hours between milling and stacking for air drying, this sycamore sprouted an amazing amount of mold. I guess I'll have to sticker wood pretty much as it comes off the mill until cooler. Hickory is also bad this way.

Does anyone have any experience drying Trembling (Quaking) Aspen? Any success? This wood is very prone to twisting and cupping. I live in Canada's Boreal forest and it is a very abundant timber but often overlooked for the above reason. Ty - Sunset House Alberta

wanted any hard wood firewood
downed trees
logs
slab wood

to be used for firewood

can travel but not to far from lebanon,pa area

[email protected]

I'm curious what others do for their customers in regards to drying lumber. Any time a customer asks "... and when can I use the boards?" I sit down and talk about drying the wood, starting with how they will use it. If necessary, I cut stickers and blocking out of their lumber, but that's obviously not a good option when dealing with a stack of walnut. Does anyone bring blocking and stickers to a job site and sell them to the customer? Seems like it would be a good way to help the customer and make a few extra bucks at the same time.

Has anyone found anything that works as good as Anchorseal?

I have read a few ideas with wax and kerosine and Latex paint, ect..   Problems I am reading and seeing are paint is made to breath so checking is going to happen if not reapplied weekly, Wax mixture peals off in the kiln, expecially a solar kiln due to heat changes.

Have even heard of mobile home roofing sealer used. But my issue I guess is discoloring the wood when it soaks in and it poping off when dried.

Well, I've finally begun work on a solar lumber drying kiln using the Virginia Tech plan.  I feel pretty silly using lumberyard wood, but want to get it up as soon as possible, not spend ages messing around with oak in the hot sun.  I envy you guys who live near (or in) softwood forests.  The best we have around here is red cedar and I'd feel guilty using it for framing lumber (although I've cut it for people using it that way; walnut too).  Here are my beginning photos.  More to come:

OK, I remember reading something about gravity back in 8th grade science class, but apparently the sawyer (not me) didn't get the memo.  Would someone please explain how this stack stays put??

Hello I have 3-10" Eastern Red Cedar logs just cut how long do I need to let them dry before using as posts for rough privacy fence and corner posts for a deck? Thanks for any help in this matter

 

Hello fellow sawyers.

I'd be very interested in your methods of drying/storing lumber, and also on what types of sales and how you market your products. When I first started out, the lumber was for my ailing woodworking father, my own projects and for friends. Now I get some enjoyment for finding out that sawmilling can actually pay bills and put food on the table too.

All,

I have recently purchased a lightly used LM2000 mill. I have milled for several years using a Alaskan Mill, but age has caught up with me so I am happy to have found this Norwood mill.

As part of my milling and drying upgrad I have pretty much decided to purchase a Logosol Sauno Kiln. Any one out there that has experience with this Kiln I would appreciate your input.

 My biggest question is that in Logosol's plan for actually building the Kiln box they specify the following:

 

 

Dow Solimate, 300 BE.A.N,