Have had good luck with woodmizer double hard 9 degree 7/8 pitch, Also used norwoods 3/4 pitch blades had to slow down cutting when approaching knots especially when milling spruce.

I primarily cut hardwoods - oak and walnut predominating. I use Timberwolf 7/8 pitch, .042" thickness, 10 degree hook. I went with Timberwolf early because they most closely resembled the Norwood blades I got with the mill. At the first sharpening, I grind them to a 9 degree hook (8 would probably also be fine) and set to 021". I should probably experiment with other bands, but the Timberwolf have served me well, so I've yet to stray. Red cedar, my only softwood, cuts like butter with any blade I have.

I haven't tried any Ryan but woodmizer blades are less than Norwoods when I checked I have a woodmizer outlet 25 K from my place.

I’ve used the 7/8 pitch 10 degree blades for pine and hackberry, and switch to 3/4 pitch blades for oak and pecan because that’s what was recommended to me by Norwood. So far it’s worked out ok for me unless blades don’t have enough set. When the blades are not set enough I start getting very wavy cuts - I went through a spell when I followed bad advice and started trying to set blades every third sharpening. Now I set them every time I sharpen and they cut like new blades - no wavy cuts since.

3/4” pitch definitely seems slower in soft woods but that may be that I was being cheap and trying to finish a blade that was almost “used up”. In oak and pecan that still is very freshly cut I use a sharp 7/8” because it cuts good and is a little faster - but if the wood is seasoned some it seems like I have to slow down so much to keep a good cut that the 3/4” pitch is a little faster. Maybe I just think too much lol. Also seems like the diameter of the logs might make a difference too - smaller seasoned logs seem to be affected less by different pitch blades, but I usually switch to a 3/4” blade on anything 24” to 35” diameter.

Yes I got both cams when I got my sharpener - when I tried to sharpen my first 3/4” pitch blades they had sent me the wrong cam. Norwood made it right so I’ve been using both since. With the Norwood sharpener it only takes 5 minutes to switch cams so it isn’t really a problem once I got the right cam. Sharpening and setting is time consuming but I really enjoy the mill so it’s just part of the game I guess.

Hi All, I'm new to the forum and just wondered if you could help me? I have a Lumber Pro HD36 but I'm having trouble with my blade moving in Hard Oak (at knots) and moving in Dauglas aswell. I can understand the movement in the oak and compensate by cutting slower, however the movement in the Douglas is more confusing, surely I shouldn't be getting a wavey cut in soft wood with a new blade? It seems to follow the grain, could this be a trate of cutting green softwood? Would changing to a By-Metel 1/4" blade or 1/2" help keep my cuts true? All my wood is clean. Cheers

Need more blade tension ? I don't recall wavy cuts in fir but I've had to learn how to cut pine to avoid waves with some species.

I broke a couple blades using to much tension 5 or 6 yrs. ago but went back to just getting the blade fairly tight I don't count the turns on the crank just go by what feels like the previous times. I found in pine it was following the grain before the knot so I slowed down 4 or 5" before the knots then sped back up once onto of through the knot.Since you probably have ceramic guides reduce the tolerance and run them just barley behind or right at the edge of the gullet. That's the only thing I can think of to stabilize your blade because unlike rollers you have no down pressure on the blade.